The hustle and bustle of Eid al-Fitr in the last week of Ramadan leading up to Eid day do not only happen in Indonesia, but also in the neighboring countries that are members of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN).
In the last days of Ramadan, millions of people travel home, or what is known as mudik or homecoming, in waves using various modes of transportation including land, air, train, and sea travel.
Malaysia, Indonesia’s neighbor, also has its own homecoming tradition. Malaysian Prime Minister Anwar Ibrahim has waived all toll fees for four days in conjunction with the Eid al-Fitr homecoming tradition to ease the burden on the economy and facilitate traffic flow. All toll roads in Malaysia will be free of charge with this policy on April 19th, 20th, 21st, and 24th, 2023.
Strait Times reported on Wednesday (April 19) that the largest toll road operator in Malaysia, Plus Malaysia, has predicted that around two million vehicles will use its toll roads during the Eid holiday. This is a 20% increase compared to regular days.
In addition, PM Anwar Ibrahim also provides a special discount for traffic violation fines based on the regulations in 2022 and prior. Each fine will be reduced to RM50 or around Rp167,000.
Special discounts also apply to food ingredients such as chicken and onions for vendors who offer affordable food to low-income consumers in a program called Menu Rahmah. Those are the efforts of the local government to provide convenience and facilities for its citizens.
Aside from Indonesia, homecoming traditions also exist in Malaysia, Thailand, and the Philippines. Although not as large as in Indonesia and Malaysia, Muslim workers in Bangkok return to Pattani. In the Philippines, Muslims in Manila go home to Mindanao.
According to the Center for Southeast Asian Social Studies (CESASS) of the Gadjah Mada University, homecoming is a tradition that has existed since the time of the Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms. It has been preserved to this day into a cultural practice in the Southeast Asian region.
According to Kuntowijoyo, homecoming (mudik) is an awareness to return home. Going back to one’s hometown is an effort to free oneself from the busy and individualistic city. In the word “mudik” or “udik”, there is a shared meaning that human behaviors should reflect authenticity, such as being collective, honest, and caring towards others as a distinctive characteristic of people from their hometown.
In Indonesia, there are several Lebaran (Eid al-Fitr day) traditional practices that have been passed down from generation to generation, such as homecoming, beating drums, takbiran (recitation of Allah is great) parade, food-sharing with neighbors, making ketupat (boiled rice cake wrapped in coconut leaves), halalbihalal (a gathering to ask for forgiveness from each other), visiting graves, receiving THR (holiday bonus), getting new clothes, and playing with fireworks.
In Malaysia, the tradition is not that different from that in Indonesia. As a tradition, they have homecoming, which is called “balik kampung”, and visit the graves of families and relatives.
In addition, dishes served in Malaysia during Eid al-Fitr are the similar to that of Indonesia. There are ketupat, rendang (meat slowly cooked in coconut milk and spices), lemang (glutinous rice cooked in bamboo), and cookies called “kuih raya”. They also give out money in envelopes (angpao) to children, employees, or the poor.
Civil servants in the Malaysian government receive their THR on April 17, 2023. Malaysians will have a four-day holiday this year for Eid al-Fitr from Friday (April 21) to Monday (April 24), regardless of whether the Eid day falls on Friday or Saturday.
These exciting Eid al-Fitr celebrations do not only happen in Peninsular Malaysia but also in Malaysian communities in northern Kalimantan, especially in Tawau, Sabah, where they have their unique tradition in welcoming Eid day. They hold the Perang Pintu Gerbang (Gate Festival) for communities or villages with the best-decorated gate with cash prizes ranging from RM7,000 to RM10,000.
Homecoming Tradition in Singapore
The homecoming tradition is also maintained by Indonesian nationals working or studying in Singapore. Besides airplanes, thousands of Indonesian nationals go home by taking ferries to Batam. Meanwhile, Malaysians living in Singapore generally use land transportation via Johor Bahru.
Strait Times reported on Thursday (April 20) that at least two million people will travel back and forth from Singapore and Malaysia through the Johor Bahru border checkpoint. The celebration of Eid al-Fitr in Singapore is not that different from the one in Malaysia. After the Eid prayer in the morning, Muslim families in Singapore usually visit their parents and relatives to ask for forgiveness.
They also hold open houses and provide special dishes such as ketupat, rendang, lemang, and kuih raya. Similar to the ones in Indonesia, Muslims in Singapore also perform homecoming if they have family in Malaysia or Indonesia. They also give money to children.
Eid al-Fitr in Viet Nam
Muslims in Viet Nam are a minority. However, the local government treats them with great respect. Muslims in the country are given the freedom to celebrate Eid al-Fitr.
However, Indonesian nationals or Muslims who work in Viet-Nam will find it difficult to take homecoming leave. There is no long holiday in Viet Nam during Eid al-Fitr. The long holiday is usually given during the celebration of Chinese New Year or Tet Day (Vietnamese New Year).
During Ramadan, Indonesian workers in Viet Nam continue to work as usual. Flexibility is given when celebrating Eid al-Fitr. The Indonesian Ambassador to Viet Nam, Denny Abdi, said that the number of Muslims in Viet Nam is only around 70,000 people out of a population of around 97.46 million people (based on the 2021 census) with the majority of Muslims living in southern Viet Nam.
Meanwhile, the number of Muslims in Hanoi, which is part of the northern region, is much lower with only 200 to 300 people. “That number includes diplomats from embassies of Muslim countries. With such a small number of Muslims, the determination of Eid al-Fitr day is also carried out in a limited manner,” said the Indonesian Ambassador to Viet Nam in an interview with Antaranews on Wednesday (April 19).
Provinces with Muslims Population in Thailand
The atmosphere of Bangkok, the capital city of Thailand, is not as lively as other Southeast Asian countries on Eid al-Fitr day. There are no takbir (reciting prayers) and only regular feasting after the Eid prayer. The Islamic Center Mosque of Thailand in Suanluang, Bangkok, usually hosts the Eid prayer for local Muslim community.
The Muslim population in Thailand is about 3.76 million people or 5.4% of the total population. The majority of Thailand’s population adheres to the Buddhist religion.
The homecoming tradition and Eid al-Fitr celebration are more pronounced in four provinces, namely Narathiwat, Pattani, Yala, and Satun, where the majority of the population is Muslim. The Eid al-Fitr holiday is also specifically given in these four provinces.
For Thai Muslims, the actual celebration falls on the seventh day after Eid al-Fitr day, which is called Rayo 6, or the celebration after fasting for six days in Shawwal (the 10th month of the Islamic calendar). On this celebration, they eat ketupat and chicken curry. They also visit graves.
Writer: Kristantyo Wisnubroto
Editors: Ratna Nuraini/Elvira Inda Sari/Penny P. Rusman
Translator: Wisnu Wardoyo
